Even for a city deep in the throes of French food mania, this hipped-up bistro stands out from the competition. Housed in the sleek Sixty Soho hotel, Leo’s dining room radiates Mediterranean chic, pairing old-school marble tables and checkered floors with new-school touches like electric-blue banquettes. The long marble bar has quickly become a neighborhood hot spot. Chef Brian Loiacono brings city-sleek sophistication to his updates on classic bistro fare, like a decadent take on carrots Vichy that swathes the rich, butter-soaked vegetables in a tart, tingling Timut peppercorn yogurt. Glistening black sea bass, scaled with thin layers of potatoes and bathed in a veal reduction, is quite a revelation, as is the delicious deep-fried banana pain perdu.
- Les inspecteurs du guide MICHELIN