Posh little Riverdale—its leafy residential streets may be long on charm but they come up short on good food. Thankfully, Beccofino stands apart from the neighborhood’s ho-hum standard. In fact, this American-leaning Italian spot has been a local favorite for years—and with good reason. Exposed brick walls, rustic terra-cotta floors and white deli paper-covered tables lend a homey setting, where the specials are handwritten and then tucked inside the regular menu. The kitchen creates each plate with great care and the portions are especially generous. Stuffed mushrooms are earthy and divine; cavatelli tossed with Italian sausage, broccoli rabe and olive oil is contentment in a bowl; and veal with a sherry-shallot demi-glace is exemplary.
- Les inspecteurs du guide MICHELIN