This recruit in a retro drugstore is already the toast of town, with crowds young and old packing in—not unlike neighboring sister, Pizzetta 211. The big and airy space is designed for all-day dining —whether that may be coffee and wood-fired bagels during the day, or a substantial dinner (and cocktail) later.Co-chefs Mel Lopez and Joyce Conway turn out a Cal-Mediterranean menu heavy on seafood and pastas, like rustic handkerchiefs in a velvety white Bolognese sauce. Carnivores can get down on a grilled bone-in pork chop, accompanied by gently charred broccolini and nectarines. And that San Francisco must—brunch—is brilliantly executed here, with enticing eggs in purgatory or Dutch baby pancakes with fresh fruit and whipped crème fraîche.