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This snug charmer is a local favorite fit for the modern age. Expect blistered Neapolitan-style pizzas straight from the wood oven; excellent handmade pastas; and vegetable-focused small plates.

While the city’s better Italian spots can usually be found outside Little Italy, this kitchen is working to change that impression. Reservations are hard to come by, so plan ahead. Plump diver scallops arrive seared to golden, sporting fennel slivers, crushed hazelnut and mandarin orange. Then look forward to al dente rigatoni tossed in a ricotta sauce dotted with pork sausage. For dessert, the seasonal option might feature lime curd topped with mascarpone ice cream, smoky meringue and hazelnut cookie crumble.