Rustic charm abounds at this laid-back restaurant, from the décor to the vaulted brick ceiling. Seasonality is key here and Chef János takes time to visit his small, artisan suppliers personally. His travels inform the interesting set menu (go for the longer version), with vegetables treated as reverently as meat and fish, and curing, pickling and ageing all playing their part. Knowledgably prepared, consummately seasoned dishes have a delicate touch and could include grey catfish with buckwheat or duck with celery and pine. The unobtrusive, expertly paced service is spot-on too.