Chef Atsushi Sugahara is all about the cooking of rural Italy. What Sugahara prizes most are the relationships of mutual trust he enjoys with food producers. Vegetables arriving from farmers in Yamagata Prefecture provide ingredients for pasta dishes. Kurobuta pork from Miyagi Prefecture is simmered with tomatoes and white kidney beans. For wine pairings, ask the sommelier, who is thoroughly versed in the chef’s cuisine.