He may be in his 70s, but founder Chef Ah Tu is still hands-on in the kitchen and his restaurant is a veritable institution of vintage Taiwanese cooking. Symbols of joy and good fortune are deeply ingrained in the décor – from the red shop sign to the red tablecloths. There are only 18 items on the menu, including specialities such as fried shrimp with egg, and traditional fried pork liver. Some dishes require pre-ordering.