Are we in Bywater or Mexico? Pastel pink tile, gorgeous stonework and striking breeze walls set a stylish, dramatic stage for Chef Ana Castro. Not to be outdone by the room’s good looks, she offers an inspired, seafood-driven menu that showcases equal levels of boldness and flair. Consider the superb “al pastor” hamachi tostada, the corn for which is nixtamalized in-house. Hearty masa-dough dumplings tossed with Higgins crab, oyster mushrooms and a corn beurre blanc deliver warmth and refinement in spades. Even something like a sweet potato arrives turbo-charged with peanut mole, turmeric and lime. A custard-like flan ends the meal on a sweet note. The bar, meanwhile, shakes up a dazzling selection of vibrant, craveworthy cocktails.