Tucked away down an alley with no visible signage apart from a triangle, diners are greeted by the awe-inspiring sight of a giant longan wood-fired kiln and rows of charcoal grills behind the counter. The veteran head chef is keen on straight-forward, back-to-basics cooking, in which meat, fish and veggies are grilled over a wood fire. The menu changes every few weeks, but New Zealand venison is a firm fixture. Order the abalone if available.