Close to the canal in the Dublin suburbs sits this airy, glass-fronted restaurant run by husband-and-wife team John and Sandy Wyer. There's a minimalist, casual elegance to the place, with the cosiest tables those in front of the open kitchen. Go for the full tasting menu to experience as much of John's mature, controlled cooking as possible. Dishes are free of overcomplication and put the emphasis firmly on the superb ingredients, such as glisteningly fresh cod with an original celeriac beurre blanc. The efficient service comes from a friendly team.